Ukrainian traditions, customs, and art have a very long chronology of origin and development that has survived to this day. Embroidery was and still is one of the leading attributes of folk clothing decoration. So, what was the history of the transformation of clothing, its purpose from practical to ceremonial? And how does embroidery have anything to do with it?
Scythians
The desire to decorate clothes was an inevitable manifestation of the evolution of human consciousness. Over time, this desire became a need: through decoration, people showed their status among others, proved their importance and material status. In the previous article We have already mentioned the Scythians and their monuments, which are material evidence of the ornamentation and decoration of their clothing. Their ceremonial attire was decorated with patches of gold thread.
The Scythians’ ornaments were mostly animalistic and domestic, but you can also see a lot of abstraction: wavy, vertical parallel lines, zigzags, swirls, which are often found not only on clothing, but also on precious jewelry and armor, etc. Geometric ornaments in the form of stripes were very common on the edges of the collar, hem, sleeves, and in the middle on the back of jackets. The Scythians were especially lavishly decorated with trousers – they were embroidered with a pattern in the form of curls, hooks, rhombuses, zigzags. Such brightly decorated clothes are depicted on a vase from the royal burial of the Kul-Oba mound and on a bowl from the Hayman’s grave (IV century BC)” [1, с.13].
Sarmatians
Among the Sarmatians who lived on the present-day territory of Ukraine, the decoration can already distinguish the socioeconomic status of different segments of the population. For example, wealthy Sarmatians wore clothes richly embroidered with gold threads, while poorer women wore ordinary colored threads. Excavations conducted in 1974 under the direction of Halyna Kovpanenko in the village of Kovalivka in the Mykolaiv region were a great discovery for the study of Sarmatian life. A rich inventory was found there, indicating the high social status of a woman who lived around the first and second centuries AD.
The difficulty of excavations in the XX-XXI centuries is that most of these burials have already been looted for profit. One of the surviving burials was at Sokolova Mohyla. Remains of gold embroidery on silk fabric were found here. The embroidery of the first century B.C. is considered one of the oldest known to mankind. Archaeologists and other scientists managed to reconstruct it. The embroidery was filled with various elements, several horizontal stripes forming a complete picture: the upper strip had a plot ornament, below it were stripes of palmettes (floral ornament) and abstractions. This is the first documented material object that has plot images in embroidery and was created using the unique technique of “in the attachment” (a method of attaching a thread to a fabric without pulling it through most of the warp. The embroidery is done by stretching the main thread over the fabric and then securing it with small stitches using another thread.), which had no analogues at the time. Isn’t it amazing?
Rus-Ukraine
The Kyivan state adopted Christianity as its official religion rather late. Following the example of other European countries, including Byzantium, the inhabitants of Rus-Ukraine also learned how to decorate fabrics to decorate churches. The fabrics were decorated mainly with gold and silver threads, and such sewing was highly valued among the nobility. In chronicles, you can find information about the development of sewing on fabrics. For example, we find references to “indynya” – one of the types of royal clothes (outer garments), “curtains” – used around the kivoria (a cover over the throne) in the altar.
Anna-Yanka, Vsevolod’s daughter and Volodymyr Monomakh’s sister, organized a school at St. Andrew’s (Yanka’s) Monastery for girls, where they learned to embroider with gold and silver. The embroidery of the Kyivan state is characterized by the technique of “piercing” – when a metal thread is threaded through the fabric. Over time, the ornaments of the local inhabitants’ clothing began to depart from Byzantine traditions and acquire original features. This is evidenced by the excavations of burials where the ornament was different from the previous ones, with not only gold threads but also gold plaques in the form of crosses.
Embroidery occupied an important place among the people. Not only was the decoration embroidered on the sleeves or hem, but also on the chest, along the hips and legs – the locals believed that such magical patterns would give strength and power to the legs and the body as a whole.
Embroidery is an ancient craft used to decorate fabric with decorative patterns using thread and a needle. In many cultures, embroidery has a deep symbolic meaning and serves not only an aesthetic but also a sacred function. In Ukrainian culture, for example, embroidery is an important part of the folk heritage that carries centuries-old traditions, symbols and beliefs.
The main purposes of embroidery:
- Decoration of clothes and home
Embroidery was used to decorate shirts, towels, tablecloths, and bedding. Each region had its own unique techniques and ornaments. - Symbolic meaning
In the traditional sense, embroidery on clothing or fabrics was often a talisman. For example, Ukrainian embroidery used ornaments that symbolized protection, health, fertility and love. - Family ties and identity
Embroidery was often passed down from generation to generation, preserving family stories and memories. It also indicated belonging to a particular region or community. - Ritual function
Embroidered towels were an important part of wedding, funeral and religious ceremonies. For example, the towel was used in the rituals of blessing the newlyweds. - Art and self-expression
Embroidery is a form of creativity where craftswomen could show their talent, imagination and sense of style.
